Vacante de exceptie in Bucovina

Manastirile pictate din Bucovina sunt primele destinatii turistice romanesti premiate cu "Marul de Aur", considerat a fi un premiu Oscar a turismului.

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... la rândul lui, Mirele în timp ce era barbierit de catre un barbier sau vataf priceput, era de asemenea batjocorit de cei prezenti?

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Botosana - Gastronomia

Fie ca esti un fin cunoscator al gastronomiei, fie ca esti un novice, simturile tale gustative vor fi impresionate de ceea ce se numeste mâncarea bucovineana. Bucovina si-a pastrat intacta, pe lânga traditii si obiceiuri, si identitatea culinara care alaturi de manastiri si peisaje constituie un punct de atractie pe lista calatorului care ajunge în Bucovina.

Marea majoritate a turistilor sunt interesati de acest tinut în perioadele de sarbatoare crestina, respectiv Craciun, Anul Nou si Paste când se acorda o atentie aparte mâncarurilor traditionale bucovinene. Preparate cu precadere din ingrediente naturale – de obicei din ograda proprie - cu mândria gospodarului constient de aportul de calitate pe care-l ofera aceste ingrediente în produsul final - mâncarurile bucovinene sunt facute nu doar sa-ti potoleasca foamea ci si sa-ti trezeasca simturile încât poti sa le „vezi” gustul si sa le „simti” aspectul.

Ajunul Craciunului bucovinean pastreaza ideea prepararii a douasprezece feluri de mâncare de post( grâu pisat si fiert, prune afumate fierte, bob fiert, sarmale cu crupe, ciuperci tocate cu usturoi, bors de bureti, fasole fiarta si "sleita"), precum si mâncare de peste. Traditia asezarii mesei în “casa cea mare” peste care se asterne cea mai frumoasa fata de masa (realizata manual), se pastreaza si astazi încantând turistii care asista la acest obicei. Sub fata de masa gazda pune fân, peste masa se petrece un fir de stramatura rosie, legat sub forma de cruce, iar pe colturile mesei se aseaza caciulii de usturoi. Mijlocul mesei îi este rezervat unui colac rotund iar in jurul sau se aseaza douasprezece farfurii în care se afla cele douasprezece feluri de mâncare. Cele douasprezece tipuri de mâncare nu sunt rezervate doar oamenilor, resturile ramase sunt puse în hrana animalelor.

Pe masa de Craciun sunt nelipsite: sarmalutele în cuib de smântâna, cârnati de porc cu salata de sfecla rosie si hrean, pastrav în cetina de brad, supa de pui cu taietei de casa, tocanitele cu legume din carne de pui sau vita, tochitura de porc, (mâncare traditionala constând într-o combinatie de cârnati de porc prajiti, cotlet de porc prajit, brânza de oaie, ochiuri si mamaliga) mamaliguta (pâinea taranului), cu brânza de vaci, oi sau capra, la care se adauga slanina si un pahar de tuica. De asemenea, sunt nelipsite mâncarurile facute din ciuperci din padure (hribi, opintici), mamaliguta cu ciuperci, friptura de pui cu ciuperci, clatite cu ciuperci, zacusca cu ciuperci si salata de ciuperci cu gogosari. Pentru desert, cel mai renumit este cozonacul, placintele “poale-n brâu”, clatite sau papanasi cu brânza.

La capitolul bauturi, gazdele se pot lauda cu o gama larga de aperitive alcoolice realizate din fructe: visinata, ciresata, afinata, cornata, zmeurata. Bautura traditionala este tuica dublu distilata sau palinca. O bautura apreciata este si berea de casa pe care gospodinele o prepara din hamei si boabe de porumb.

Pastele în Bucovina aduce o paleta larga de mâncaruri bucovinene, în care un loc de cinste îl are pasca(facuta dintr-o foaie din aluat dospit, acoperit cu un amestec din brânza de vaci, smântâna, oua si zahar, decorata cu o cruce facuta din coca si coapta într-o tava rotunda). Vedeta mesei traditionale de Paste în Bucovina o reprezinta friptura de miel. Nelipsite de la acest eveniment sunt si oaule rosii. Traditia spune ca fiecare membru al familie trebuie sa manânce mai întai un ou sfintit în prealabil la biserica(ca de altfel toata mâncare de Paste) dupa care se poate trece la urmatoartele feluri de mâncare: ciorba de miel, drobul de miel, miel cu rozmarin la cuptor, cozonac cu rahat.

Retetele bucatelor bucovinene sunt pastrate bine în fiecare familie si se transmit urmasilor cu mare grija, ca si cum împartasirea lor altor persoane ar duce la degradarea lor, la pierderea calitatii mâncarurilor. Si chiar daca, odata cu trecerea timpului, bucataria nationala a adaugat între retetele ei si mâncaruri din alte tari, bucataria bucovineana a ramas fidela ingredientelor naturale si retetelor strabune care au consacrat-o.

Din secretele bucatariei traditionala bucovineane va impartasim si faptul ca gustul bun al ei se datoreaza si folosirii pentru gatit a unor ustensile traditionale care pastreaza intact gustul natural si nu-l altereaza: linguri de lemn, covata de lemn, ceaun din tuci, vase de lut. La toate acestea se adauga si un ingredient pe care tot mai multi uita sa-l adauge când prepara o masa: respect si dragoste.

Retete traditionale din Bucovina

 

Pastrav afumat in cobze

În alimentaţia locuitorilor din zonele de munte, în perioadele din afara posturilor, carnea ocupa un loc important. Pentru a o putea utiliza mai mult timp, păstrând calităţile nutritive şi organoleptice, locuitorii satelor de munte au folosit şi folosesc afumarea ca metodă de conservare pe durată limitată a cărnii.

Bucovinenii stiu foarte bine ca alaturi de ouale incondeiate , de costumele populare, din care nu lipsesc bunditele cu blana de dihor, cobzele cu pastrav afumat reprezinta o emblema a zonei.

Chiar şi cei care nu se împacă cu gustul peştelui găsesc delicioasă aroma de cobză verde sau de păstrăv. Minunea culinară este pregătită de localnicii din Bucovina după reţeta silvicultorului Antonovici, care a inventat acest preparat acum vreo cinci decenii.

Secretele prepararii

“Fiecare peşte e prins, curăţat, spălat bine şi pus să stea vreo patru ceasuri la baiţ, cu sare şi condimente. Nu folosim oţet sau vin, iar condimentele nu trebuie să fie din cele tari, ca să nu acopere gustul delicat al peştelui. După asta, peştele îl clătim şi îl punem la afumat. Folosim numai fum cald, ca să se pătrundă carnea, din conuri de brad. Afumatul e o tehnică specială şi trebuie să o deprinzi, pentru că dacă fumul e prea cald sau prea tare, peştele se sfărâmă sau devine amar, iar dacă fumul e prea rece ori prea puţin peştele rămâne crud. Durează cam 4-5 ore afumatul, poate şi mai mult uneori. Pe urmă se lasă la răcit şi abia după aceea se poate grupa peştele în cetină şi lega” – Teofil Grigorea, de la păstrăvăria Valea Putnei.

 

Bulz taranesc

La nici o pomana a porcului nu lipseste renumitul bulz taranesc. Este un fel de mancare preparat din boturi de mamaliga in care pune branza de burduf si sunt coapte apoi pe plita. Se poate servi cu afumaturi sau oua ochiuri deasupra.

 

Ciulama de galbiori

Ciulamaua de gălbiori nu mai are nevoie de nicio introducere sofisticată, de cuvinte care să o “vândă”. Pentru că este exact ceea ce îi spune numele: o tocăniţă pe bază de smântână, cu cele mai fragile şi îmbietoare roade ale pădurii.

Carnea galbiorilor este alba in interior, galbena-aurie spre exterior, are un miros si un gust placut. Este una dintre ciupercile mult apreciate si rareori e atacata de daunatori. Galbiorii cresc in grupuri, prin paduri umbroase si umede de rasinoase si de foioase (mesteacan, fag).

 

Preparate traditionale vanatoresti

Bucovovina are o lunga traditie in vanatoare, drept dovada stand faptul ca intregi capitole din 'Descrierea Moldovei' sau 'Letopisetul Tarii Moldovei' sunt dedicate vanatorilor domnesti. Potrivit acestor scrieri, este şi firesc , ca după o vânătoare domnească să se întindă şi un ospăţ de rangul sus-puselor persoane. 

Gastronomia vânătoreasca bucovineana este o bogaţie culinara ,o mare varietate de produse la care şi-au pus amprenta şi tradiţia locuitorii acestei zone. Preparatele vanatoresti din Bucovina incanta atat ochiul, cat si papilele gustative, putand satisface chiar si cele mai exigente gusturi.

  • Platou vanatoresc
  • Rulada padurarului din cerb si caprioara
  • Fazan la cuptor
  • Sarmale vanatoresti in foi de vita
  • Piept vanatoresc
  • Salam vanatoresc

 

Casul dospit

Pentru prepararea casului dospit, dupa inchegare, laptele se desprinde usor cu mainile de pe peretii cazanului si se marunteste bine pana la marimea bobului de mazare, timp de 10 minute, pentru scoaterea zerului, dupa care se amesteca usor inca cca 5 minute.

In continuare, se adauga 5 litri de zer, incalzit la 40-42°C, la 100 l lapte, pentru pastrarea constanta a temperaturii de 37°C, apoi coagulul (laptele inchegat) se "aduna" usor, timp de 10 minute, cu ambele maini, formandu-se un conglomerat mare si rotund, pe sub care se trece cu atentie sedila, in vederea asezarii lui pe crinta, sub o greutate usoara.

Dupa 5 minute, se "rupe" in bucati de marimea unui ou, apoi se leaga sedila si se preseaza cca. 2 minute. Urmeaza o noua maruntire pana se ajunge la marimea "bobului de mazare", dupa care sedila se leaga, fiind supusa ultimei presari uniforme si moderate, cca 2 ore, cu ajutorul unei placi mai groase din lemn de fag sau de stejar, pe care eventual se poate aseza - dupa caz - si o lespede de piatra de marime potrivita.

In ceea ce priveste cheagul, in lipsa solutiei industriale de pepsina, se foloseste stomacul mieilor sacrificati pana la varsta de 3 saptamani, in care se adauga lapte si sare multa.

Dupa circa 2-3 saptamani se sectioneaza, iar continutul se dizolva prin frecare intre degete in cca 2 kg de apa calda, dupa care se filtreaza.

Tot in acelasi scop se poate folosi si mucoasa stomacului de porc, frecata cu sare multa, dupa care se introduce intr-un vas, peste care se toarna lapte, lasandu-se cca 2 saptamani in aceasta stare, apoi se filtreaza si se foloseste.

Balmos de Bucovina

Balmosul este o mâncare ciobaneasca facuta din cas dulce de oaie, fiert în lapte sau unt la care se adauga putin malai

Ingrediente necesare:

  • l kg malai
  • 2 litri smântâna
  • 400 g unt
  • 500 g telemea
  • l kg cas proaspat

Mod de preparare

Se pun la fiert smântâna si 200 g unt

Se marunteste brânza. Când începe sa bulbuceasca fiertura, se presara malaiul, putin câte putin, amestecând mereu. Se adauga brânza, se amesteca pâna e totul o mamaliga. Se ofera în blide cu cas farâmitat si bucatele de unt.

Tochitura bucovineana

Ingrediente necesare:

  • Carne de porc
  • Carne de vita
  • Carnati
  • Sunca
  • Slanina afumata
  • 2 oua
  • Telemea din lapte de oaie
  • Condimente

Mod de preparare

Se pune in tigaie la prajit carnea, cirnatii, sunca, intre timp se face si o mamaliguta potrivita nici prea moale nici tare, apoi cind totul e gata se ia cu polonicul uns cu putin ulei sa nu se prinda de el mamaliga.

Se pune pe o folie rotunda si se intind forme rotunde, se ia din carnea prajita care a fost condimentata si se roleaza in forma ca si la clatite pe farfurie direct (SE IA FOLIA), se prajesc 1-2 ochiuri oua, dupa preferinta moi sau mai tari, se pun deasupra peste aceasta mamaliguta umpluta cu carnita de tot felul cu putina grasime, si se rade telemea.

Ciorba radauteana

Ciorba radauteana, cum ii spune si numele este traditionala pentru zona orasului Radauti, dar si pentru intraga Bucovina. Ciorba cunoaste mici variatii de la o gospodarie la alta, dar carnea de pui, smantana si telina nu lipsesc din nicio reteta.

Ingrediente necesare:

  • 1 piept de pui
  • 1 morcov
  • 1 ceapa
  • 100 gr telina
  • 1 ardei
  • 3 catei de usturoi
  • 400 gr smantana grasa
  • 2 galbenusuri

Mod de preparare

Curatam si spalam zarzavatul si il punem la fiert in 3 l de apa in care punem si pieptul de pui. Cand pieptul e fiert il taiem fasii iar zarzavatul il scoatem. Lasam supa sa se racoreasca 5 minute,timp in care frecam galbenusurile cu smantana. Cu un plonic trurnam putin cate putin din supa peste ouale batute cu smantana, pana aducem la temperatura supei. Apoi turnam peste toata supa. In mojar zdrobim usturoiul adaugam putina sare si punem in supa.

Se serveste fierbinte, presarata cu verdeata tocata marunt.

Buturuga de ciocolata

Este o reteta de prajitura speciala in Bucovina. Nu este foarte usor de facut, dar nici foarte greu; este foarte gustoasa, arata special si este foarte potrivita pentru masa de Craciun. De fapt, este o rulada umpluta cu crema.

Sunt zeci de retete pentru buturuga, de la cele umplute cu fructe, pana la cele cu ciocolata.

Placinte poale-n brau

Placintele poale-n brau sunt un simbol al bucatariei moldovenesti, niste placinte cu branza atat de bune, incat se spune ca te lingi pe degete cand la mananci . De obicei sunt consumate la orice ocazie, nu doar la anumite sarbatori sau in anumite perioade, cum e cazul altor feluri de mancare romanesti.

Cele sarate se servesc calde cu smantana,inainte de masa, iar cele cu umplutura dulce- cu miere alaturi ,pudrate cu zahar, pentru sfarsitul mesei.

 

 

 

 

 

Bauturi traditionale

Vin

Tuica (rachiul de prune, palinca, obtinute prin distilare)

Bere de casa


Impresiile vizitatorilor

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25 August 2016

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